Campa Summit + Ausangate Summit

Description

Nevado Ausangate is the 5th highest peak in Peru at 6,384m, and the highest of the seven 6,000m peaks in the Cusco Region. The first ascent to the main summit in 1953 was led by the famous Austrian mountaineer Heinrich Harrer, part of the first team to conquer the north face of the Eiger and from the book/movie “Seven Years in Tibet”.

Ausangate is by far the most well-known big peak for mountaineering in Cusco since the normal route is not so technically difficult, although a good amount of stamina is needed for trail breaking on the summit plateau. Ausangate is the principal Apu of Cusco and can be seen from many places in the city. There are less tourists that visit this province of Cusco but it is becoming more popular as a destination for the circuit trek in the dry season.

Photos

Photo gallery

Itinerary

Day 1.- Cusco – Tinqui – Pacchanta.

Private transport of 4 hours crossing one pass (4200 m). Until reaching the village of Pacchanta (4260 m.) Where there are thermal baths of the community. They also have basic accommodation services (optional to our services).

Day 2.- Pacchanta – Base camp to Campa

We begin the ascent through a beautiful ravine crossing lagoons until reaching the vicinity of the Campa pass, where we will install the camp. (4920 m.) Spectacular view to the north face of the Ausangate. We will cross beautiful lakes along the way and small houses with friendly people.

Day 3.- Campa summit:

We will begin the ascent at 4:30 am, when it dawns in this region. We will reach the wide glacier in about 2 hours and climb to the summit for a spectacular view of the Ausangate, our next objective. After reaching the summit (5500 m.), Descend to Campa pass (5010 m.) And enter the southern part of the mountain, until the camp Soracuchupampa (4660 m.). This high Andean valley is very attractive to other peaks of the Vilcanota mountain range.

Day 4.- Soracuchupampa – base camp Ausangate:

This will be the shortest day of the expedition, in about 4 hours we will reach the Ausangate base camp (4820 m.).

We can observe the route before arriving at the camp. We will make preparations for the ascent to Ausangate.

Day 5.- Base camp – camp 1 Ausangate:

We will cross moraines and in about 4 hours we will reach the 5500 m of camp 1. We will see our way the next day and the wall of access to the plateau of the Ausangate.We will observe an enormous glacier of snowy Santa Catalina. The camp is carried out on moraine zone. In case it has snowed it will rise in snow.

ay 6.- Camp 1 – Ausangate summit– Base camp:

We awake at 1 am and leave the tent by 1am. After traversing crevasses we arrive to a 200m wall at 60-70 degrees. After the wall, a glacier hike of about 4 hours brings us to the summit. We descend the same route and rappel the 200m wall. At Moraine Camp we rest, pack up and then go down to Base Camp to spend the night

Day 7.- base camp Ausangate – Pukacocha lake :

Asscent to the palomani pass (5116 m.) and descent to Ausangatecocha lake (4680 m.) Another short pass (Apacheta) 4900 m. and finish to Pucacocha  lake (4800 m.).

Day 8.- Pucacocha lake – Upis – Cusco:

We will cross the north side of the mountain through the Arapa pass (4790 m.) And reach the small town of Upis (4458 m.) Where we will have the option of using the magnificent local thermal baths. (Payments to use the bathrooms are made directly to the people of the community / Not included in our services) In the afternoon we will return to Cusco. Our private transport will wait for us in the village.

Included/ not Included

Included

  • Transportation (Cusco to Pacchanta, Upis to Cusco)
  • All camping/group climbing equipment
  • 1 High Mountain Guide per 2 clients
  • Arriero and horse service (will carry all expedition gear)
  • Food from Lunch Day 1 until Breakfast Day 8
  • Waiting and transfer from the airport to the hotel
  • 3 nights in Hotel in Cusco (**)

Not included:

  • Air tickets Lima Cusco Lima (We can manage them)
  • Food in Cusco (City).
  • Personal equipment (sleeping bags, warm clothing, etc.) and mountain equipment
  • (Boots, piolets, harnesses, crampons, etc.)

In Cusco it is possible to rent all kinds of material for climbing. Contact us.

Recommendations

IMPORTANT: Although technical mountaineering experience is not required; it is preferable that you have some glacier travel experience since there are several crevasses on the route. The steepest part is a 200m snow wall at 60° to arrive up on the summit plateau; Have a good physical condition and acclimatization. Recommend before starting the climb to have been in Cusco city for at 3 days.

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