Cordillera vilcanota – rise to ausangate 6384m.

Descriptions

Nevado Ausangate is the 5th highest peak in Peru at 6,384m, and the highest of the seven 6,000m peaks in the Cusco Region. The first ascent to the main summit in 1953 was led by the famous Austrian mountaineer Heinrich Harrer, part of the first team to conquer the north face of the Eiger and from the book/movie “Seven Years in Tibet”.

Ausangate is by far the most well-known big peak for mountaineering in Cusco since the normal route is not so technically difficult, although a good amount of stamina is needed for trail breaking on the summit plateau. Ausangate is the principal Apu of Cusco and can be seen from many places in the city. There are less tourists that visit this province of Cusco but it is becoming more popular as a destination for the circuit trek in the dry season.

Photos

Itinerary

Day 1.- Cusco – Phinaya village- Base camp

Travel by private transport of 4 hours until reaching the peasant village of Phinaya (4600 m.) Where we will begin our walk of approx. 1:30 h to the base camp (4800m).

Day 2.- Acclimatization in the base camp

This day we will devote ourselves to acclimatizing ourselves well and we will make a short walk in the surroundings until 5100. We will make the previous preparations for the ascent to the Ausangate tomorrow

Day 3.- Base camp – camp 1 Ausangate:

We will cross moraines and in about 4 hours we will reach the 5500 m of camp 1. We will see our way the next day and the wall of access to the plateau of the Ausangate.

We will observe an enormous glacier of snowy Santa Catalina. The camp is carried out on moraine zone. In case it has snowed it will rise in snow.

Day 4.- Camp 1 – summit Ausangate –base camp:

We awake at 1 am and leave the tent by 1am. After traversing crevasses we arrive to a 200m wall at 45-50 degrees. After the wall, a glacier hike of about 4 hours brings us to the summit. We descend the same route and rappel the 200m wall. At Moraine Camp we rest, pack up and then go down to Base Camp to spend the night

Day 5.- Base Camp – Cusco

Día relajado donde caminaremos 1 hora de descenso hasta borde de la pista donde nos espera un transporte que nos llevará de regreso a Cusco. Pararemos a almorzar en el pueblo de Pitumarca y visitaremos el pintoresco  pueblo de Checacupe, antes de llegar a nuestro destino final la cuidad del Cusco.

Included/ not Included

Included in the package:

  •       Mountain group equipment (Ropes, screws, Express tapes, stakes, etc.)
  •       1 professional Mountain guide per 2 clients
  •       Cook for the entire route
  •       First aid kit.
  •       Complete mountain food. (Breakfasts, box lunch and dinners complete and very nutritious)
  •       We have vegetarian options and according to preferences.
  •       Mountain tents (2-3 p)
  •       Kitchen, fuel and personal dining utensils.
  •       Private transportation Cusco – Phinaya-Cusco
  •       Mattresses

Not included:

  • Food in Cusco (City).
  • Personal equipment (sleeping bags, warm clothing, etc.) and mountain equipment
  • (Boots, piolets, harnesses, crampons, etc.)

Recommendations

IMPORTANT: Although technical mountaineering experience is not required; it is preferable that you have some glacier travel experience since there are several crevasses on the route. The steepest part is a 200m snow wall at 60° to arrive up on the summit plateau; Have a good physical condition and acclimatization. Recommend before starting the climb to have been in Cusco city for at 3 days.

Video



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